(Our care sheet below, contains Lighting, Housing and Feeding requirements).

An open topped housing method (as shown in one of the above pictures) is much better than an enclosed fish tank type vivarium .

Two forms of heat are necessary. A gentle background heat and a spot, or basking source. The tortoise must be able to self regulate its body temperature by choosing its own favourite position within its pen. Background heat can be provided by placing the vivarium in a warm location, basking heat can be provided by placing a miniature 20w-30w mini-spot light over the unit to create a basking temperature of 70-80 degrees. Hatchlings can die if they fall onto their backs under an excessively hot spot lamp! Use only a low powered lamp (20-30w mini spot light from a DIY store). In addition to a small basking light, some natural light is essential. Alternatively, use True-light or similar, full spectrum fluorescent tube positioned over the unit (we use a 15w Activa 172 professional Sylvania tube light). These provide daylight quality lighting which stimulates natural activity patterns.

Try to provide as natural a day-night cycle as possible. Do not keep over-warm at night, a fall in temperature is natural. We have found that the hatchlings like to have a retreat that they can hide away in (especially at night) and for this we use an old clay flower pot cut in half or an ice cream carton with the side cut out.

Clean the pen out regularly, and once a week we give the hatchlings a bath in tepid water, scrubbing the shell lightly with a very soft tooth brush to remove any dirt, being very careful not to touch their head or legs with the brush.

Make use of a safe outdoor enclosure as often as the weather allows, certainly, in spring, summer and on warm autumn days they will be happy outdoors. Be sure to make any such enclosure not only escape proof, but also predator proof. A strong covering of wire mesh will provide adequate protection. Some cover is also essential, for this we bring out the clay flower pot (cut in half) or the ice cream carton with the side cut out so the tortoises feel at home and can hide away if they want to.

FEEDING (Taken from The Tortoise Trust Feeding Manual) Feed once per day. Do not overfeed. It is better for hatchlings to be slightly hungry than over-fed. Over-fed hatchlings will grow too rapidly and may develop lumpy shells. No high protein veg and no meat products, tortoises are herbivorous, Need diet rich in calcium. Every meal is sprinkled with cuttlefish and twice a week sprinkled with Nutrobal which is rich in calcium and vitamin D3, as recommended for hatchlings (available from the Tortoise Trust). Be careful to avoid picking plants from areas contaminated by lead (from vehicle exhausts) or from areas which may have been subjected to chemical spraying.

WILD FOOD FOR TORTOISES. Recommended basic food plants:

Dandelion (Taraxacum officianale)

Sowthistles (Sonchus Spp.)

Plantains (Plantago Spp.)

Clovers (Trifolium Spp.)

When collecting wild foods take care of pesticides, try to be familiar with your local area and have ‘safe’ places for collecting. Also try to leave the roots intact so the plant can recover and grow again.

Some flower and grow throughout the year and can be collected during winter (except in very cold frosty spells) making them a useful addition to winter diets. Obtain a wild plant book and cross reference Latin to common names as some common names may differ regionally.

Dandelions, Mallows, Plantains, etc can be found during the winter months in sheltered areas. During this time we also mix in cress, water cress, small slice of tomato or cucumber is given as a treat only, about once every two weeks, they seem to like it but it is not recommended as tortoises need a coarse fibrous diet. Please note these shop bought foods are only used during the winter months when wild foods are in short supply.

Do not overfeed, in the case of hatchlings, after 12 months captive bred specimens may be 300 or even 500% larger than wild equivalents of the same age. Greatly accelerated growth of this order places a considerable strain upon the overall metabolism.

Water must be available at all times and as they tend to get right into the dish to drink you need to change it regularly.

PLEASE NOTE These hatchlings have not been hibernated, but I have spoken to a fellow member of the Tortoise Trust and she tells me that she hibernates her hatchlings during the first winter (about Christmas time) for six weeks. They are placed in a small cardboard box, filled with shredded paper, (plenty of air holes) which is put inside a wooden box to prevent rodents getting to them. These are then put onto a shelf in her garage where it is cold enough for them to slow down and checked regularly. The critical temperatures are maximum of 50 degrees F (10 degrees C) and minimum of 32 degrees F. The ideal temperature is 40 degrees F (5 degrees C). I think we will try this next winter.

Tel: Bournemouth (01202) 397070 (UK only).